Ha Giang, Vietnam

Our sleeper bus rolled into town around 2:00 am, so you can imagine Jamie and I were quite tired and ready to crash into bed. The driver got us there quickly, and we reached the hostel earlier than anticipated, but this was due to some rather erratic driving, which meant we didn't get any rest on the bus.

After failing to sleep, we set out around 10:00 am to find a coffee shop to work from. We quickly discovered that Ha Giang is a small town that most people pass through as they embark on the Ha Giang Loop. Although we couldn't find a place to work, we did manage to get Jamie a new pair of sunglasses, which was a small victory. We settled down at the hotel to work and later had dinner at an Italian restaurant where Jamie was served lasagna in a glass bowl—something never before seen! We tried to have an early night since we needed to be up early the next morning to start the Ha Giang Loop so we popped some sleeping pills to catch up on some sleep eager to start the adventure!

Day 1: Ha Giang to Sa Phin

Ha Giang – Bac Sum Pass – Heaven Gate – Twin Mountain – Quan Ba – Yen Minh – Tham Ma Pass – Lao Xa Village  – Sa Phin (140 km)

We booked a medium-sized group tour expecting 7-10 participants and were pleasantly surprised to find only two others joining us. The four of us had easy riders, meaning we would ride on the back of someone's bike as we journeyed through the mountains. My guide looked like he couldn't be over 19 with a baby face. We had to downsize our bags to fit on the motorbikes, bringing just a small backpack for the next four days as we set off.

The weather began quite cloudy, and I was disappointed that we dropped everything to get to Ha Giang to do the loop to catch the nice weather. However, by noon, the sun started to emerge, offering us some of the most stunning views. We passed by the famous Bac Sum Pass and Heaven Gate on day one, 1,500 meters above sea level. Other highlights included driving past the rice paddies and rocky terrain where the H’mong people reside. Our guide took us to see how a local community makes clothing and it gave an interesting insight into the craftmanship behind some of the things we might take for granted.

Not everything went smoothly though. Jamie's bike was quite small, and he was cramped on the back. I offered to switch with him, but when we stopped at a viewpoint, I lost my balance and stumbled into the bike parked next to us as they were tightly packed and Jamie's bike was a fair bit higher than mine. During my dismount, my calf brushed against the exhaust pipe of the adjacent motorbike, which was still extremely hot. I ended up with a second/third-degree burn which was not ideal, let alone at the beginning of the trip. The tour guide we were with acted swiftly, providing a cold water bottle for icing and stopping at the next town's pharmacy to get bandages and burn cream for treatment, as we would be heading into remote areas with limited supplies.

With the riding for the day coming to a close, we were apprehensive about the homestays because Jamie and I felt a bit old for this kind of backpacker travel. This was compounded when the drivers taught us a chant involving a local liquor, which you're supposed to take shots with. We weren't keen on staying up partying until dawn. We were worried when the tour guides turned on karaoke, but by 9:30 pm, everyone was quiet and the singing concluded. Small victories.

Day 2: Sa Phin to Dong Van

Sa Phin – Lo Lo Chai Village – Northernmost Point – Dong Van – Thien Huong village – Dong Van (95 km)

Day two was not fun. I woke up with a migraine due to several nights of poor sleep (the homestay lacked walls reaching the ceiling, allowing every sound from people using the restroom or walking around to be heard). Our bike team faced a fog delay, and it was extremely cold—my brain somehow failed to realize that being in the mountains meant temperatures of 10 degrees Celsius. Fortunately, I had the foresight to pack sweatpants and leggings just in case, along with a light coat, but poor Jamie only had a t-shirt and shorts.

We began the day by putting on our rain gear. The mist from the fog made the roads quite slick and filled the air with moisture, so we would get wet without the plastic gear. We adjusted the itinerary to visit Lo Lo Chai Village since the viewpoints were obscured, and our guide took us to a local woman's home to see rural life. She was busy making their local liquor and offered us a drink, but having recently heard the news of tourists passing away from improperly brewed local alcohol in Laos, we politely declined. From there, we rode to the Northernmost Point of Vietnam, where my bike slipped a bit before my driver corrected it, which was terrifying and left me anxious for the rest of the day. On the upside, we got to see China, which was exciting. That and the tour guides are constantly all over Jamie. Not sure what that's about, whether they have a crush on him or are just very friendly, but it makes things entertaining.

We went to check into the homestay for the night, only to find there wasn't a room for our new friends, and they tried to place us in the driver's room next to the bathrooms, which, of course, smelled gross. We told them we couldn't stay there, and the agency quickly arranged for us to stay in a fancy hotel for the night. We were impressed with their swift response, and this turned out to be a much nicer option as we had a private bathroom and shower and were in the city center. Our guides shared a room, and we enjoyed a hot pot dinner together in the city center before exploring the area. Being a Friday night, there were many people out, giving us a glimpse of local life. There was a large hoop in the town square for tossing bean bags to win prizes and a bonfire with dancing and a DJ. We even managed to find Jamie the perfect fleece jacket for the last two days of biking since he had caught a bad cold from the chilly temperatures.

Day 3: Dong Van to Du Gia

Dong Van – Ma Pi Leng pass – Meo Vac –  M-shaped Curve – Mau Due – Du Gia (85 km)

The weather was finally in our favor again, and I was eager to enjoy more views today. We began our journey at 1,400 meters, trekking along the cliffs with the Nho Que River below. Beyond the breathtaking natural scenery, Ma Pi Leng Pass holds historical significance as an important connection to the Ho Chi Minh Path, which was used to transport supplies for the army. 

On the third day, we encountered the famous M-shaped Curve, a highlight in most Ha Giang promotions for its challenging roads. The scenery that day was breathtaking, and I finally felt confident on the bike again, enjoying the ride. Some of my favorite photos from our trip were taken on this day, as we traveled surrounded by mountains. Our homestay was nestled in the valley, offering views of the surrounding peaks. We took an evening hike to a waterfall, which was average, but I wished we could have stayed a second night in Du Gia as I found it to be beautiful and one of the highlights of the loop.

Day 4: Du Gia to Ha Giang

Du Gia – Duong Thuong – Thai An – Thuan Hoa – Ha Giang (100km)

None of our group needed to return early to Ha Giang for a bus, so we took our time on the journey back to the city center. We traveled through Thon Tha Village, where it was fascinating to observe the locals engaged in their daily activities on the rice paddies. A group of children was playing on one of the paddies, which seemed quite daring given the height of the cliffs.

The weather was average, so we didn't see many stunning views, and we spent most of the day riding back into town. The road conditions returned to being terrible, and I probably gripped my seat with white knuckles as it was extremely bumpy. There were moments when my bum and feet lifted off the seat and footrests, making me anxious that a minor shift could cause us to fall off the bike. I already had one injury and wasn't trying to get another!

We had a late lunch around 2:00 pm upon returning to Ha Giang. By then, Jamie and I were worn out and eager to conclude the Ha Giang loop. While the rest of our group headed to a waterfall for one last adventure, we opted to be dropped off at our hotel and spent the evening relaxing. No regrets!

Final Thoughts on the Ha Giang Loop

Cassidy: Honestly, I wasn't eager to do the loop because I was worried about getting injured and spending four days on a bike. However, I'm glad we went because it pushed me beyond my comfort zone. There were moments when I was scared and didn't want to continue, but there was no real option but to keep moving forward. The cliffs were steep and the roads were tough, but the views were breathtaking. I enjoyed exploring the remote villages and being social at night, meeting different people, and getting to know our group members. We bonded with our drivers and got along great with the French girls in our tour group, which made the trip super fun and memorable. I'm proud of myself for completing the loop without a breakdown, despite being injured and sleep-deprived.

Jamie: As the most highly recommended activity of our trip, I had high expectations for the Ha Giang loop. While the scenery was stunning, it was surprising to see the level of air pollution. Only one of the four bikes in our group felt suited for the challenging terrain, and the pace often felt rushed, making it hard to fully enjoy the journey. Passing through villages provided a fascinating glimpse into local life, though I wished for more opportunities to interact with residents. On the bright side, the French girls in our group were delightful companions who added a lot to the experience. Reflecting on the journey, I’m glad we did it, but I believe a slower pace and a more interactive itinerary could have enhanced the trip significantly.

Grabbing some R&R

Like I said in the beginning, most people tend to only come in and out of Ha Giang for the loop, but Jamie and I planned to hang around for four extra days, in the end, to catch up on work and give my burn some time to heal without extensive walking on it. Our original hotel was the size of a closet, so we moved to somewhere a bit fancier for our last two nights and slept like kings.

We spent our last day planning the next step in our travels: a sleeper bus to Hanoi before making our way to central Vietnam where we will explore Hue, Da Nang, and Hoi An. Stay tuned for the post where we will take on Vietnam's capital city!